Before choosing an aquarium, decide what type of fish and how many so that the enclosure suits their needs and they live a happy and healthy life! Also, decide where you want to place an aquarium, space and budget. Avoid sunny windows or drafty doorways. Aqueon offers over 40 aquarium sizes, built to suit virtually any freshwater or marine application. From specialty shaped Bow Front and Corner aquariums to Reef-Ready aquariums with MegaFlow and Corner Overflow systems, Aqueon has the right one for you! Aqueon Glass Aquariums Tempered vs. Non Tempered Due to glass availability, Central Aquatics may temporarily substitute regular or non-tempered glass panels with tempered glass panels. Anytime a glass substitution is made, a sticker will be adhered to the aquarium bottom as a precaution to the end user. Please Note: Any aquarium that is altered in any way (i.e. - drilled, attempted to be drilled, the center brace removed) by an individual outside of Central Aquatics, will deem the warranty null and void.

Fish rely on a regular day/night cycle for optimum health, however brightness is less important and too much light can cause algae growth. Live plants, on the other hand, need strong light (which is different than brightness level) and a broader spectrum for photosynthesis. Certain fluorescent lamps and LED bars can enhance the colors in fish and the overall appearance of your aquarium. All lighting can be used along with an automatic timer, which fish will appreciate. Overall, strip lights and light fixtures are meant for use with glass tops in order to provide full coverage over the top of the aquarium. Coverage greatly reduces water evaporating from the aquarium. A full hood light fixture will also provide the necessary full coverage. Incandescent lighting is still used in some aquariums, but more economical and visually pleasing options like fluorescent and LED are the norm. Fluorescent lighting is cooler, brighter and uses less electricity than incandescent. It is a common type of aquarium lighting, although LED is surpassing it in popularity.

For peak performance, replace incandescent and fluorescent lamps annually. LED lights are the most economical and energy efficient and offer a wider range of lighting options.Show All ItemsI picked up a used 20 gallon hexagon aquarium tank off of Craigslist for 5 bucks. This is the perfect size tank for my 2 whites tree frogs. The tank came complete with a couple heat bulbs and dishes but had no top to it. Whites tree frogs like a taller tank and the tank needs a good solid cover as well as good ventilation.So I made my own hexagonal tank hood top complete with LED lights.READ AND FOLLOW YOUR OWNERS MANUAL FOR YOUR EQUIPMENT! I removed my table saw guard because I use a cross cut sled for a lot of projects. Also, no one else uses my saw either. NEVER OPERATE A TABLE SAW WITHOUT THE GUARD. Step 1: Materials and ToolsToolsTable Saw (with crosscut sled)Miter SawClamps (spring and small bar clamps)Drill with a bit for the chicago screwsMaterialsI used 1/2" plastic sheet material I picked out of a local plastics company scrap pile, I love "free".

(This stuff cuts nice and very rigid and waterproof).2 -2" But Hinges with 8 - chicago screwsCloth Screen (the stuff in a window screen)Poultry Fabric AKA chicken wire (this is wire screen with larger openings (1/4" squares))I also used a strand of LED lights for the hood.Step 2: Figuring Out a DesignShow All ItemsI have been woodworking a very long time now and this hexagon was a very challenging project.6 foot fish tank and standI started this project (and failed) 3 times before my fourth attempt. 55 gallon fish tank in mobile homeI even drew up a Sketch-up model with very accurate dimensions (this really helped a lot.) co2 for aquarium diyDownload the 3d Sketch-up file here.custom fish tanks san antonio

The top consists of 1/2" lightweight plastic cut into a front and rear top attached with a standard but hinge with chicago screws. I used chicago screws because of the density of the plastic sheet material. Its almost like a dense (but light) foam. cutting this hexagon accurately is pretty tough. I managed to get this right in 2 of the 3 failed attempts and did it differently each and every time. I cannot pin down a good process of doing this. corner fish tank whiteThis one I made in two halves, a front lid and a rear lid with screed door screen in one half and poultry fabric in the other. fish tank filter venturiI needed the poultry fabric on the rear because of the UVB light the critters need. The screen door screen would filter too much of the light rays. And these are tree frogs and climb. I needed to block them from exiting and allow for ventilation.

Step 3: Cut the Hexagon Top Show All ItemsMy material was scrap. I think it was a sign from a cell phone store. I needed to cut the first straight edge using a "straight edge jig" It clamps the odd shape to the bar and the bar rides along the fence for your first cut. Next, I removed the jig and flip the board for the other side straight edge.I rough cut 2 pieces about 7-1/2" wide and about 18" long (finished length is 17-1/4").Next, I set up the crosscut sled to 30 degrees and made the first cut at the end of each lid. Now I flipped the boards over and installed a stop block. I rough cut it to longer than needed dimension and with a couple more cuts fine tuned it to properly fit , then I cut the second lid to fit.Step 4: Cut the Openings for the ScreenShow All ItemsUsing a Depth Gauge, I scribed a mark at each corner where the distance meets. This is a visual reference to stop.I set up a 1/4" straight bit in my router and placed my fence 1-1/4" away from the bit. Then, with the router running I place the lid panel into the bit.

A plunge router would be safer or even a scroll saw would work for this, but I got the best results this way.I pushed the panel into the fence and stopped at my mark. this first cut was a rough cut. I moved the fence closer for a second finished cut.Once I cut the openings for the ventilation,I need to rabbet a groove on the underside of each lid panel. I installed a 1/4" rabbet bit with bearing in my router and cut a groove 1/4"X1/4" on the inside bottom of each panel. Next I cut some scrap at 1/4" X 1/4" to fill the rabbet groove and help hold the screens in place.Step 5: Cut and Install the ScreenShow All ItemsI cut a piece of screen door material with a pair scissors, the first cut is the width. lay it in place to see how it fits before going further. The pic doesn't show the screen very well but you want to make the cuts as straight as possible. It looks weird if its crooked. Once I got it a good straight cut and fit for the width of the rabbet opening I cut the length to fit.Next, I cut that 1/4"X1/4" scrap fillers to length.

These fill the rabbet groove with the screen sandwiched between the frames and the fillers. With the screen laying inside the rabbet, I used Epoxy and brush to brush a liberal amount into the rabbet groove on top of the screen. Then I placed the filler strips on top and clamped it tight for about 5 -10 minutes until it hardens. I always glue scrap pieces together with each epoxy mixture to test and see how well it hardens before messing with the project for each glue session. I hate working with epoxy! Step 6: Hinges and LEDsShow All ItemsThese are standard butt hinges, I had laying around the shop. I also had these small aluminum chicago style screws that fit perfectly into the hinge holes.With the lid panels in place, I placed the two hinges in place and marked for drilling. I marked and drilled one panel at a time. After the first panel was drilled, I placed the hinges on it and marked and drilled the second panel.I had to remove the top and flip it upside down for the LED lights. These lights consist of 7 small plasic fixtures attached by their connecting wires.