new fish tank instructions

Thoroughly wash aquarium gravel, rocks and ornaments with warm water, then add them to your tank. Do not use soap or detergents—they are highly toxic to fish. To wash the gravel, put it in a colander over a plastic pan or bucket and add water. Stir the gravel, drain, and repeat until the water stays clear and is free of debris. Fill your tank approximately one-third full with room temperature water from a clean bucket. Pouring the water onto a plate or saucer sitting on the gravel will help keep the gravel in place. Add a water conditioner, like Tetra® AquaSafe® Solution, to de-chlorinate the water. Chlorine is fine for you, not your fish! Connect the airline tubing from the air pump to any air outlets inside your tank, such as air stones or decorations. By using an aquarium check valve, you can safely locate your air pump underneath your aquarium. (A check value is a small valve that is placed in the air tubing outside of your tank. It acts as a stop, preventing water from backing up and out of your aquarium if the power is turned off.)

Aquascape with live and/or plastic plants. Ideally, these should be arranged to hide your equipment. If you’re adding live plants, make sure the water is warm enough for them. Plant the roots gently below the surface of the gravel, leaving the crown (if the plant has one) exposed. Remember to keep live plants moist until they’re planted—wet newspaper works well. For optimum growth and root development, use an aquatic plant fertilizer such as Tetra® FloraPride® and the proper lighting. Add the rest of the water. Fill your tank to the bottom of the top frame —leaving some air space between the water and the cover. Set up your filter and “cycle” your new tank. If you are using… Fill them with filter materials or filter cartridge. Position them according to instructions. Make sure it is primed (filled) with water. …”hang on tank” filter that has a pickup tube: Extend the tube as close to the bottom of the tank without being in the gravel.

If it is too long, you can cut it to length and reattach the intake cage. Be sure to open the filter lid and fill the filter with water to “prime” the pump. Important: “Cycling” your tank means growing the correct, healthy bacteria on a new filtration system to remove dangerous toxins. Add Tetra® SafeStart® Solution, and you can quickly cycle your tank and add fish right away. Secure the submersible heater near your water flow and place the thermometer as far away from the heater as possible. Make sure you have a thermometer that’s easy to read. Most retailers sell an adhesive thermometer that adheres to the outside surface of the glass. Plug it in only after it is in the water. Plug in your air pump, power filter and heater and start them up. Important: Do not switch on the heater when it’s not immersed in water—the heating element can malfunction and overheat, and the glass tube can shatter if placed in water while hot. Check the air outlets and adjust the settings.

Make sure water is flowing properly through your power filter. Adjust the heater to the proper temperature. It will take 24 hours for the temp to stabilize and you may have to adjust your setting. Wait 24 hours to ensure all equipment is working properly before adding fish. Check the conditions and temperature after a few hours. Water in new aquariums will often turn cloudy for a day or two.
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Your new aquarium is fish-safe, fish-ready and fully equipped. Introducing your new pets to their new home, which you can see how to do here. If you have any setup questions or need any help or support, feel free to contact one of our friendly TetraCare experts. We’re always happy to help.Your Window to Another World Welcome to the world, the art, the experience of fish keeping.
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And there is nothing quite like an aquarium to generate an appreciation and respect for our environment. Fun, easy and instructive, an aquarium is a singularly beautiful, always fascinating addition to any home or office … a welcome source of entertainment, education and relaxation for the entire family. Think of your fish as pets and you’ll agree, they deserve the best care and attention you can provide. They rely on you to keep their environment healthy. A healthy aquarium is relatively easy to achieve and maintain, but it will not happen by itself. It depends on you. In rivers, lakes and oceans, water is cleansed and filtered naturally. In an aquarium, it’s a different story. In order to keep aquarium water clean and healthy, you must help. This means taking care not to overcrowd the tank or overfeed the fish. It means changing some of the water regularly, cleaning the gravel bed and providing the proper filtration. Sound like a lot? In fact, it only takes about 30 minutes a week.

In addition to your aquarium, filter and lighting, here’s a list of what you need to get started: Gravel: Coated or pre washed is ideal. Decorations: Only those designated for aquariums (e.g., live or artificial plants and ornaments). Water Conditioner: De chlorinates tap water to make it fish-safe. Net: For transferring fish. Gravel Washer: For water changes and cleaning. Fish Food: Consult your dealer for a recommendation. Never attempt to move a full or partially full aquarium. Never lift an aquarium with wet hands. Never attempt to lift aquarium by grasping upper edges or frame. Always grasp and carry an aquarium from underneath, supporting the bottom at all times. Using a damp cloth, clean your tank inside and out prior to setup. Never use soap, detergents or cleaning agents. Always place an aquarium in a location designed to support its total weight. An aquarium filled with water and gravel weighs approximately 10 to 12 pounds per gallon.

Always place an aquarium on a flat, level surface and make sure an electrical outlet is near. Never place an aquarium near a heat source or air conditioner. Never place an aquarium in direct sunlight. Full or even partial sunlight can cause excessive algae growth. Add 1.5 to 2 pounds of gravel for every gallon of aquarium water. Be sure to rinse the gravel thoroughly (water should drain clear) before adding. The gravel bed should slope gradually to the front of your aquarium. Pouring a stream of water directly into your tank will disturb the gravel bed. We recommend that before adding water, you place a clean dish on top of gravel and gradually pour the water over the dish. The stream is gently deflected without displacing gravel. Always fill your aquarium with water at room temperature. Cool water produces condensation, which gives the appearance of leakage. If condensation does occur, simply wipe surface with a clean cloth until temperature stabilizes. Always treat water with a dechlorinator before adding it to your aquarium.

Do not add plain, untreated tap water — it can kill your fish. A Word About Decor Once the aquarium is half full, you can add aquatic plants (live or artificial) and/or decorative rocks or ornaments. Before adding any of these items, be sure to rinse them thoroughly. When placing plants, it’s a good idea to locate larger ones to the rear of the tank, smaller ones toward the front. This ensures an open swimming area for your fish. When all ornaments and plants are in place, continue filling the aquarium to within an inch of the top rim. A healthy, successful aquarium requires the proper filtration. Three stages are necessary. Mechanical Filtration traps solid debris such as uneaten food and fish waste. Filter cartridges are an ideal source of both mechanical and chemical filtration. Chemical Filtration uses media (activated carbon) to adsorb (attract and hold) dissolved pollutants that can cause water discoloration and odor.For mechanical filtration, there’s a poly fiber pad to trap dirt and debris.

For chemical filtration, each cartridge is packed with premium activated carbon. Biological Filtration is the third type of filtration. It depends on a culture of beneficial oxygen-loving bacteria to eliminate toxic ammonia and nitrite that accumulate in aquarium water. The bacteria culture biologically changes the ammonia and nitrite into nitrate, which is removed with once-a-month partial water changes. Beneficial bacteria will grow naturally on many surfaces within the aquarium (including gravel, decorative rock and plastic plants) and will provide biological filtration. If your system features Marineland’s patented BIO-Wheel® technology, a culture of bacteria will grow on its surface. The bacteria will thrive — because as the BIO-Wheel rotates, they are nourished by exposure to the larger amount of oxygen in the air. This is “wet/dry” biological filtration. A heater may be used to maintain water temperature in your aquarium. Most tropical fish require a constant water temperature between 75° and 80° F. Goldfish and certain other cold water species are the exception to the rule.

They can exist quite comfortably without a heater. Lighting brings out the natural colors of your fish and is essential for live plant growth. There are many different types of aquarium light fixtures available. Your dealer can help you select the appropriate light fixture for your individual needs. An aquarium hood or cover is always a good idea because it helps keep fish in and airborne pollutants out. Important Note: To avoid excessive algae growth, limit the lighting of your aquarium to 7 to 10 hours per day. It’s relatively easy to plug your lighting fixture into a standard timer. Before plugging in your heater, hood or any other electrical equipment, take special care to read all written safety precautions in your owner’s manual(s) and be sure to use a drip loop. Use a GFCI-protected outlet whenever possible. When creating a new aquarium environment, patience is vital to success. Allow your system to operate for at least 24 hours before adding fish. Begin by talking with your dealer about what fish are best suited to your aquarium, what fish are compatible with one another and how many would be appropriate.

Add only a few recommended fish at first, gradually introducing more over the next four to six weeks. Choose only fish that appear active and healthy. And take special care not to overcrowd your aquarium. Fewer, healthier fish are better than an over abundance of stressed-out fish. Make sure the water your fish enter is approximately the same temperature as the water from which they leave. To equalize the two temperatures, float the transport container (usually a plastic bag) in the tank for about 15 minutes. Then, at five minute intervals, open the bag and add a small amount of aquarium water. Finally, after 15 minutes, gently net the fish and place it in the aquarium. Do not add bag water to the aquarium. Let the fish swim from the net into the tank. The less traumatic the transport, the better. Feed your fish twice a day — only what they will eat in about five minutes. Taking Care of Your New Aquatic Environment A properly maintained aquarium filter means cleaner water and healthier fish.

You will need to replace your filter cartridge and perform a 25 percent water change every two to four weeks. You also need to vacuum the gravel thoroughly to remove any waste buildup. The easiest and most effective way to accomplish both a water change and a gravel cleaning is with a standard, siphon-operated gravel vacuum. Water that appears cloudy, yellowish or smells bad is telling you that your aquarium water needs changing and a new filter cartridge immediately. If the problem persists, it may be because you have too many fish — or because you’re overfeeding them. Bring a sample of your water to your dealer for testing. When replacing water in an aquarium, be sure to treat it first. Most tap water contains chlorine or chloramines, and adding untreated tap water to your tank could seriously harm your fish. Be sure to check with your dealer for the water dechlorinator that works best with your local tap water. Always replace old water with new water of approximately the same temperature to avoid shocking your fish.