Whether you want a new look for your aquarium or a healthy alternative for your fish, gravel replacement can be tricky. While the most important beneficial bacteria live in the filter, plenty of ammonia- and nitrite-eating organisms colonize on various surfaces, contributing to the nitrogen cycle. If your tank has been set up for more than a few months, a good portion of your bacteria live in your gravel, and removing it altogether will overwhelm the nitrogen cycle, resulting in ammonia and nitrite spikes that can harm and kill your fish. There are safe procedures to changing out gravel. It just takes patience and preparation. Option 1: Temporary SetupThere is one way to do a complete gravel removal in a day and not harm your fish, and that’s setting up another tank for the new substrate. Basically you are running a fishless cycle on another tank full of gravel; this means you will need a filter and ammonia to start up the cycle and dose occasionally. Run this fishless cycle until the readings read zero ammonia, zero nitrite, and any amount of nitrate.

This will probably take up to a month to accomplish. Once the tank has cycled, spend the day removing the old gravel and replacing with the newly colonized gravel. Pros: You can keep your fish tank looking great and then instantly change the gravel once the temporary setup has cycled.big fish tank on second floor Cons: Setting up another tank can be a hassle and costly if you need to buy the equipment, not to mention a month can be a long time for some people to wait.big fish tank castle Option 2: Seeding GravelTake some pantyhose (60 cents for a pair at Walmart) or filter media bags and fill them to the brim with new gravel. biorb fish tanks on ebayThen place these sacks in the aquarium after thoroughly rinsing them. fish tank bed for sale

After a month, remove the old gravel and pour in new, rinsed gravel along with the cultured ones in the tank. Pros: Pretty simple and cheap. Cons: You are only colonizing a small portion of your new gravel. Colonizing at least half of the gravel would be significant, but this would mean overcrowding your tanks with bags of gravel.fish tank for gecko Option 3: Replacing SectionsThis option is my favorite. marine fish tank for sale ukI’ve seen videos of people using dividers for tanks (like betta dividers) to separate the gravel so you can replace a portion at a time. This way you have most (or half) of the gravel's beneficial bacteria throughout the procedure. Chain pet stores and Local Fish Stores (LFS) will carry these dividers, but it’s cheaper to make your own, using plastic mesh found in craft stores, suctions cups, and in my case, plastic needles.

Make sure to secure the bottom with suctions cups as well as the sides. Might as well cut the divider a few inches above gravel so fish still have full room to swim. Just make sure the top of the divider is smooth so it doesn’t catch fins. If dividing in halves, wait a month before changing out the other side. In smaller tanks, you can just push all the old gravel to one side, divide, and place in new gravel. So the first four weeks you’re not losing any bacteria. Pros: You’re colonizing a large portion of the new gravel without setting up another tank. Cons: Might look strange if changing out the color. Option 4: Any Combination of the Three MethodsNo matter which method you use, be sure not to take out any filter media during this process, even chemical media. I would wait at least two weeks after partially changing out media to begin this process, and wait a few weeks after all gravel has been replaced to remove anything from the filter. So basically, don't remove any media for 6-8 weeks.

To avoid clogging up the filter with debris over time, take out media at least once during this process and carefully rinse with aquarium water (because chlorine from the tap will kill bacteria unless treated).Setting up your new AquariumSo you have all the gear but no idea? Before you start anything It is important that you carefully choose where you want to place the tank, make sure it is even ground and will support the tank's filled weight. Slanted floors can result in undue stress and crack the aquarium glass.Hard, flat surfaces are ideal. Cabinets are popular and are a requirement for larger, heavy aquariums. For smaller aquariums (30 gallons or less) any sturdy, reinforced furniture with a flat surface can suffice.Be sure that the chosen aquarium location can support the electrical requirement (lights, filter, and heaters). Is there a PowerPoint nearby? If not, is it possible to conceal an extension cord? The less electrical wires, the better. Water and electricity do not mix well together.

Keeping your setup simple with a single power board and powerpoint is ideal.Below is an aquarium equipment check list. You may have purchased none or all of the items below. We will cover each of the items in further detail down the page, including recommended products.Equipment Check List AquariumAn aquarium of at least 20 Gallons is recommended for beginners. Larger aquariums are generally more stable. Aquarium gravelGravel should be course enough to allow water flow but fine enough to encourage nitrifying bacteria. Creek Stones, coarse sands, and glass gravel are excellent choices. Avoid calcium & limestone based substrates. Aquarium filterYour aquarium filter should be rated to turn over at least 3-5x the aquarium volume every hour. Use the Volume Calculator below to work out the required GPH. For smaller aquariums, Hang-on-back filters are perfect. I recommend the Marineland Penguin Power Filters for their higher flow rate, reliability & ease of use. Replacement filter mediaEnsure you have plenty of replacement filter cartridges.

They will be replaced more frequently in the early stages of your aquarium. They will keep your water clear and debris free. HeaterA heater is essential to limiting disease. It also allows the keeping of tropical fish. EHEIM Jager heaters are widely regarded as reliable heaters at an affordable price point. Use the calculator to determine your required wattage and read down the page for more information. Other decorations (such as fake or real plants) Aquarium Water Test KitA good quality test kit is very important. It will allow you to test for cycling before introducing fish. It will also alert you to toxic aquarium conditions and save your tanks inhabitants. The Freshwater Master Test Kit is a high quality test kit that allows you to test from PH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Your LFS can test your water but not if they are closed or a distance from your house. Fish foodA quality fish food will result in brilliant, brightly colored fish. Fish should be fed at least twice a day, purchasing in bulk will provide the best value.

Use a mixture of color enhancing flakes and frozen foods for more variety. Aquarium VacuumThe vacuum is the heart of your maintenance team. It will clear faeces and debris from the gravel. This will reduce nitrates & stress on your fish. If you are like me and hate spilling water over the floor & carpet get the Python No Spill Vacuum and never look back. Fish netFish nets are useful for removing dead plant matter, excess food and moving your live fish. Aquarium Glass ScrubberThe aquarium glass scrubber is essential. Always give your glass a quick clean before showing off your aquarium to friends and family. 5-gallon bucketCleaning the GravelOnce you have chosen the tank’s placement it is time to begin setting up the aquarium. Take your purchased gravel and pour it into a bucket. IT IS ESSENTIAL THAT YOU WASH THE GRAVEL. Many beginners forget to properly wash the substrate. This can lead to your brand new tank being cloudy for weeks on end.Take a hose with high pressure and spray the gravel/substrate directly in the bucket.

When the bucket is filled vigorously wash the gravel by moving your hands in a circular motion. After a few minutes remove the dirty water in the bucket while keeping the gravel at the bottom. Repeat this process 4 to 5 times until the waste water is visibly clearer. Some substrates may continue to cloud the water after cleaning. This is nothing to be alarmed about. Fine and silty substrates will naturally settle in the aquarium over time. The cleaning process is beneficial in removing dust from storage and transport.Placing the SubstrateGently place the cleaned gravel into the bottom of the aquarium. This will help avoid damage to the bottom glass and stiring any excess finer particles. A smaller scoop or bucket can assist in this process. The substrate should then be smoothed with your hands to create an even base at least half an inch thick. It is recommended to form a slight slant from the back of the aquarium toward the front. This gives the aquarium a nice perspective and the perception of a greater depth.

Filling up the AquariumFill up the tank with a hose pipe, (note if it is a small tank or you do not have a tap nearby you will have to use buckets).Use a water de-chlorinator after filling. Although there are no fish, chlorine and chloramines can build up over time. You will need a high quality dechlorinator for the life of your aquarium. It is a sound initial investment as you will need to use it every time you do a water change. Seachem Prime, API tap water conditioner, Tetra Aqua Safe & Kent Detox are all some of the most popular choices and each will do an excellent job.Choosing the Right Heater & FilterChoosing the correct heater and filter can be difficult. Use this calculator to calculate necessary filter flow and heater wattage you will need for your aquarium. Click Here to use this Calculator to Determine Necessary Filter Flow Rate and Total Heater WattageFilter MaterialGently clean out the filter material under the tap or in a bucket. As they have been stored in a warehouse or shopfront they contain dust and debris you don’t want in your tank.

If your filter contains a carbon packet in wool, be careful not to rip this open.Also wash and clean any rocks and ornaments you will be putting into the tank. You will be surprised how much dust and dirt comes off, you don’t want that in your tank.Place the material back into the aquarium filter. If it is a hang-on filter you will need to manually fill up the resovoir to start the filter working. Hang-on filters have a handle on top of which allows changing of its flow rate. For cycling put it at the maximum.Do the same for a canister filter and ensure the baskets are closely stacked and the top is tightly locked in place to prevent leaks.Heating and LightingTwo heaters are generally reccomended but in a smaller aquarium you can use one if there is a lack of space. A heater that will comfortably fit inside the aquarium is a good choice. Within reason higher wattage heaters are better as they will save power and put less strain on the heater.Stick the heater to the glass in your aquarium where there is good water flow and the least visibility.

Turn it on by rotating the temerature knob anywhere between 74 and 80 degrees (23 to 27 celcius). An orange light should turn on while the heating element is active. This will help with the cycling process.Choose an appropriate light for the aquarium. Place the light on or above the tank and set a timer for no more than 8 hours a day.Enjoy your tank as it begins the process of building bacteria to support your eco-community!CyclingAt this point you will have to “CYCLE” the tank. This will promote the build up of de-nitrifying bacteria and is essential to setting up your new aquarium.It is important to monitor the aquarium during and after the cycle. This can be done with your own freshwater test kit. Most aquarium stores will also test your water for a small fee. If you do decide to test yourself, my recommendation is the API Freshwater Test Kit. There is a link to this test kit in the checklist above. A good quality test kit will be used through the life of your tank. It can alert you to early disaster and is an excellent investment that will end up saving you money.