Dive certified Mandalay Bay guests will now have the opportunity to SCUBA dive in the 1.3 million gallon, 22 foot deep Shipwreck Exhibit, surrounded by sharks, rays, sawfish, green sea turtles and schools of fish. This unique exhibit houses over 30 sharks; including Sandtiger, Sandbar and White Tip Reef Sharks. This program is available to Mandalay Bay and Annual Pass guests who are certified divers. Limited Reservations available for Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday and Sunday afternoons. Guided Tour of the Aquarium Exhibit & Equipment Orientation with Dive Guide Dive Experience with Dive Guide Total Experience Time: 3 to 4 hours Up to 4 Admissions for diver’s guests to Shark Reef Aquarium (Tour & Exhibit Only) to view dive $ 650 1 Diver $ 1000 2 Divers (Must be booked together) All divers must be dive certified and 18 years & older A Cancellation or date change must be requested more than 72 hours in advance. All confirmed dives will be subject to a cancellation or change fee of $75 per diver.

Late cancellations (less then 72 hours) and no-shows will not be refunded or rescheduled. Q: Why do I need to be a certified diver? A: To fully enjoy the Dive with Sharks Experience and move around the exhibit freely, a diver must use SCUBA equipment. To dive on SCUBA (Self Contained Breathing Apparatus) using compressed air it is required that a diver receives training and is certified by a qualified and certified instructor. Q: Why can't I bring my own equipment? (wet suit, bcd, etc) A: To ensure the health and safety of our animals and to avoid potential contamination from other sources all equipment will be provided by Shark Reef Aquarium. Additionally this equipment is checked by a certified dive equipment technician on a regular basis. All divers may bring their own mask, however it will be dipped in a chlorine bath prior to the dive. Q: Who is the Dive Guide? A: All Shark Reef Aquarium Dive with Sharks Dive Guides are Certified Instructor Level Divers.

They will guide you through the set up and diving to ensure a great experience. While these are professional instructors, Shark Reef Aquarium does not offer a diver certification program. All participants must meet the minimum requirements for training, experience and health prior to booking.new fish tank hazy Q: How long is the dive?fish tank for oscars A: The dive or in water time is scheduled for one tank of air or approximately 45 minutes, whichever is less. buy reef savvy tankThis is also dependant on other factors such as diver comfort and abilities.fish tanks for sale cardiff gumtree

Q: What is the water temperature, depth and the exhibit like? A: The Shipwreck exhibit is 1.3 million gallons of salt water. The temperature is approximately 74 - 78 degrees and the maximum depth is 22 feet. Q: What are the species and sizes of the animals?fish tanks for sale corner A: The Shipwreck Exhibit is home to many fascinating creatures including seven species of sharks; fish tank lids for saleSandtiger Sharks (~7 - 9 feet), Sandbar Sharks (~6 - 8 feet), Gray Reef Sharks (~ 4 - 5 feet), Galapagos Shark (~ 5 - 6 feet), Nurse Sharks (~7 - 9 feet), White Tip Reef Sharks (~4 - 5 feet), Zebra Sharks (~ 5 - 6 feet). There are also two species of rays: Southern Stingrays, Green Sawfish and various species of bony fish. Q: Can I interact with and/or touch the animals? A: To provide the safest experience possible, touching or approaching the sharks, stingrays, turtles or fish is prohibited and will result in removal of the diver from the experience.

If an animal is approaching you, you will be instructed by your guide on what to do. Q: What do I need to bring? A: Almost everything is provided for you to have a great experience, including all dive equipment, locker rooms, showers, shampoo/body wash, towels, snack, and bottle of water. Each diver will need to bring a swimsuit, an adventurous spirit and any other personal care items they require. Q: What if I need to cancel or change my date? A: A cancellation or date change must be requested more than 72 hours in advance. There will be a cancellation or change fee of $75 per diver. Late cancellations and no-shows will not be refunded or rescheduled. Q: How soon after diving can I fly? A: Standards require a period of a minimum of 12 hours prior to flying after diving. Q: Can I bring my own underwater camera? A: Your experience includes a professional video of your dive and the exhibit, then you are free to enjoy the exhibit and animals without the distraction of taking pictures.

Please see "Why can't I bring my own equipment?" Q: Can I bring friends or family to watch? A: Each guest diver may bring up to four (4) guests to view the experience. The guests will be included in the guided tour of the aquarium and behind the scenes areas. They will then be escorted to the public viewing area of the Shipwreck. The Dive Guide will need the full attention of the guest diver to review equipment and instructions. Depending on dressing and prep time, there may be up to 45 minutes after the tour before the divers enter the water. Q: Why must we wear chain maille for this dive? A: While sharks, whether in the wild or in the aquarium, are not aggressive toward divers; chain maille allows you to experience the dive with no concern about your safety. This enables us to have a minimum impact on the sharks' behavior providing the guest diver with the most naturalistic experience possible.As a National Training Specialist for Nikon, much of my job is educating photographers and photo enthusiasts how to take great photographs and videos with their Nikon photographic equipment.

On a number of occasions, I’ve been asked to lead Photographer’s Night at the Aquarium of the Pacific, in Long Beach, CA. After taking many photographs in this environment, I decided to put together all of the tips that I’d found to be the most helpful when visiting an aquarium with your camera.Reflections and RefractionsThe single biggest challenge to aquarium image creation is dealing with the external reflections. The aquarium is lit so you can find your way around, which can cause issues because the light reflects off of everything! The walls, benches, your clothes, your camera gear, you and the other visitors as well will all be visible as reflections in the glass of the large aquarium tanks.

 In order to even be able to attempt taking worthwhile photos, you need to control the reflections. Blocking them is a start. You could wear all black clothing to block the reflections…but even all black clothing usually has buttons... and then there’s the issue of your face. Yep... it reflects too.

I guess you could go dressed in full Ninja gear... But the looks you’re likely to get... May not be the best idea.So, the solution is to use a lens hood. When pressed against the face of the aquarium tank, a lens hood will form a cone of reflection free darkness.

 Score! 

The problem is that a hard lens hood that’s made of either plastic or in some cases, metal, will still have some issues. They can scratch the front of the tank’s glass or acrylic surface. As photographers, we need to tread lightly and not ruin the experience for the next visitor. Additionally, many lenses now come with scalloped hoods that would still let in light. And don't even get me started on the fact that most modern public aquariums have "upgraded" to curved-face tanks. These curved faced tanks can even gather reflections from around corners!

 Here is where the rubber meets the road... err... fish tank. 

By using a simple generic rubber lens hood, you can create a completely reflection-free cone of darkness.

The rubber lens hood is excellent for bending and adjusting to your body's small movements as you hold the camera against the tank surface and try to compose your image. Nikon offers rubber lens hoods to fit a variety of lenses. Check your lens' manual to make sure you're using the correct one. The rubber will not harm the tank face, and they're inexpensive. They work best on normal to moderate telephoto lenses. When paired with a wide-angle lens, it is easy for the lens to "see" the hood. This causes rounded black cropping of the corners of the picture, so you’ll have to take care when composing your photographs with a wide-angle lens; you may need to crop your final image so the lens hood is not visible. 

You also need to watch out for light refracting through the face of the tank. Many modern aquarium tanks are made of a thick acrylic material. I find that I need to be extra careful when photographing through such a tank face. In this situation, you will need to shoot perpendicular to the tank face, otherwise you’ll likely see a colored (purple) ghost of your subject.

This is due to the way light passes through the face of the tank. Lens So what lens works best?Many fish will swim very close to the face of an aquarium tank—so that they’re swimming mere inches away from the tank material. But, as I mentioned earlier, in order to get a reflection free image, you need to use a rubber lens hood pressed directly against the tank front. That means that the focusing distance can be mere inches, which means you will need to use a macro or Micro-NIKKOR lens.But not just any macro lens will do. You need to use a lens that will also let you see the entire fish when it is several scant inches from the lens. The 85mm, 105mm and 200mm Micro-NIKKOR lenses will have too narrow a field of view. The AF-S Micro-NIKKOR 60mm f/2.8G ED lens provides a near-perfect field of view for a FX body, (which uses a 24x36mm image sensor); and the AF-S DX Micro-NIKKOR 40mm f/2.8G lens is ideal for use on a DX body, (which uses the smaller 16x24mm image sensor). 

The 40mm can focus down to about 2-inches from the front of the lens.

This means that no matter how close the fish is to the other side of the tank face, you can still get a sharply focused image.The single biggest challenge to aquarium image creation is dealing with the external reflections. The aquarium is lit so you can find your way around, which can cause issues because the light reflects off of everything...In order to even be able to attempt taking worthwhile photos, you need to control the reflections.© Paul Van AllenExposure Aquarium images aren’t as easy as I had initially thought. Trying to keep moving subjects in focus that are being lit by low-level artificial lighting is just the tip of the photographic iceberg. And although it took me a while to come up with the ideal exposure, I've got a pretty solid starting point.

 Shoot on Manual + Auto ISO + 1/125 sec. + f/5.6 = nice photos of fish shot in a barrel …err, I mean… aquarium.Because the fish don't move that fast, you shouldn’t need much more than a shutter speed of 1/125th sec., any slower and they start to blur.

Shutter speeds faster than that don’t seem to offer any additional help. The balance of subject detail and background separation seems to occur at about f/5.6.

 Because the lighting in the tanks can vary so much—and not just from tank to tank, but in different areas within a single tank—the solution is to change the ISO. Set the camera to Manual exposure so you can lock in your desired shutter speed and aperture. Then use Auto ISO to compensate for the lighting changes.I found that doing this always gave me the minimum ISO possible for each shot in each situation. This helps keep the ISO noise to a minimum, while maintaining the desired exposure parameters. You’ll want to keep an eye on the highlights. The artificial lighting used in the aquarium tanks can easily cause the lighter colored fish or lighter stripes on some fish to loose detail in the upper end of the highlights. If you find blown-out highlights, use a little negative exposure compensation. It may seem odd to manually expose the photograph while using Exposure Compensation, but since the ISO is set to Auto, the compensation adjusts the ISO to make the correction in the exposure.

White Balance In most cases, I find that the Auto White Balance works the best.My advise on flash is simple. Fish scales are very reflective. They tend not to mix well with flash.Nikon 1 Cameras at the AquariumFor those folks who have a Nikon 1 advanced camera with interchangeable lenses, you can get a rubber lens hood for your lenses as well. The 10-30mm lens is likely to be your best choice of lens for this type of photography. All other suggestions as to exposure settings apply here as well.DO try this at home! Your home aquarium can be photographed in much the same manner as we just discussed. The biggest additional issue you will face will be the background. You will need to provide an appropriate background for your fish images. Try a sheet of poster board positioned on the far side of the tank. Place it outside the tank. The reason for this is simple. Pictures of your goldfish look weird when it appears to be swimming next to your couch. A simple sheet of poster board or Foamcore will give you a nice clean background that will make your little Nemo the center of attention.