Signing up for MypetMD is easy, free and puts the most relevant content at your fingertips. 1. Tell us your name.: 2. How do you like to be called?: 3. What's your email address?: 5. You have a:: By joining petMD, you agree to the Privacy Policy. Home » Fish Conditions Old Tank Syndrome in Fish Old tank syndrome occurs in fish aquariums with high levels of ammonia and nitrite and low levels of water pH. It can be caused by overstocking, but is most commonly the result of inattentive tank maintenance. This condition can affect an age or species of fish, but is most dangerous to new fish that are added to established aquariums. The primary symptom of old tank syndrome is the death of new fish that are placed into a long established tank, while the old fish remain alive and apparently healthy. This is because the old fish are accustomed to the balance of the water, even adjusting to conditions such as build-ups of certain chemical or bacterial levels.

The old fish often do not show any signs of being affected by the unhealthy levels in the water. The new fish, however, have been accustomed to a different water balance and are shocked by the sudden change in conditions. On testing, the water will show measurable nitrite and ammonia levels, which can be toxic to fish, and a lowered pH level. pH levels below 6 indicates a serious imbalance, often leading to the loss of beneficial bacteria, which then leads to a dangerous and toxic increase in ammonia and nitrite levels in the water. The cause of the high levels of ammonia — which leads to old tank syndrome — is often due to less than ideal water maintenance, and a sudden drop in the water's pH level. When the pH of the water suddenly drops below 6.0, the biofiltration system is unable to metabolize ammonia properly. This can also potentially occur when new water is added to a tank in excessive quantities. If your fish are suffering from old tank syndrome, begin by adding a few gallons of new water each day.

This will allow the water to adjust to healthy bacterial levels again, and the fish to adjust to the change gradually. Remember that your old fish have become accustomed to the levels in the water, even though the levels are unhealthy. Too much of a change to very clean water may kill your fish. Once the beneficial bacteria are well established again, ammonia and nitrate levels will drop back down to levels closer to zero — as they should be. square fish tank ukNever dump the water entirely and start with new water and materials, as this could result in "new tank syndrome," a toxic condition that can result in the deaths of all of your fish.marine fish tank live rock To prevent old tank syndrome, maintenance is the primary concern. online fish tank for cats

New water should be added to the old on a regular basis to maintain acceptable pH levels. Never remove and replace the water entirely, as that could cause another set of problems. Additionally, testing the water balance is an essential part of caring for fish. Performing regular pH tests on the water will enable you to monitor and track the health of your fish water and make adjustments accordingly.fish tank lights wont work Ammonia levels greater than 2 mg per liter will cause toxicity symptoms in the fish.ver la pelicula fish tank onlineFish keepers and tropical fish breeders often worry about their aquarium’s pH because requirements vary among species.  fish tanks for molliesThis can lead to them frantically dumping in expensive bottled solutions, baking soda, or vinegar.

Unfortunately, that usually results in spikes and crashes that will kill your pet fish.  The number one rule of pH adjustment is if the fish can adapt to your natural parameters, leave it alone. If it is deemed necessary, there are gentle, natural ways to adjust pH, alkalinity and acidity in aquariums.   Once they’re in place, one only has to remember to do smaller, more frequent water changes so as not to cause a large fluctuation. Results will vary depending on your water supply’s buffering capacity, but we’ve found the following natural methods of adjusting aquarium pH to be effective and safe.  However, each aquarium’s chemistry is different so we suggest that you experiment with adjustments on an empty aquarium until the desired parameters are relatively consistent. Be sure to test at the same time of day to avoid inconsistencies due to natural pH fluctuations. Naturally Lowering pH in Aquariums Many Tetras and Catfish prefer a lower aquarium pH.  It’s more difficult to lower pH because you can’t remove the minerals (dH) or adjust the buffering capacity within the aquarium without the aid of pre-filtration (reverse osmosis or distilled). 

The only option is to systematically overwhelm the process.  Adding the following items will increase acidity to a point where only part is bound by buffering (KH), leaving the rest free to lower pH. Leaf Litter – You can add brown leaves such as Catappa (Indian Almond Leaves), oak or banana leaves, or use an extract bag for less mess. Peat Moss – Peat moss with no chemical additives or purchase peat pellets made for aquariums.  If we use peat we prefer the latter because we can count the pellets, making it easier to produce consistent results. A filter bag will contain the mess. CO2 – If you are a plant enthusiast who adds CO2 to your aquarium the pH will be lower. Remove any items from your aquarium that are on the ‘Increase pH’ list. Naturally Increasing pH (Alkalinity) in Aquariums Many Livebearers and Cichlids prefer higher alkalinity.  Our pH is right around neutral and our buffering capacity is nil.  We’ve found that a focus on increasing the buffering capacity / KH is very effective in providing a stable pH increase. 

To that end, we use the following items in our aquariums. Crushed Oyster Shell – In a filter media bag or box filter. The great thing about oyster shell is you can tell when it’s depleted by volume. Use feed grade to avoid impurities. Coral or sand with Aragonite – This can be effective but it will deplete. Calcium Montmorillonite Clay – We add a dash with every water change.  It balances alkalinity, adds minerals to the water column, promotes healing, aids plant growth, and keeps the algae away.  Pet-grade can be depleted or contaminated, so we use pure, edible grade only. Provide water movement – Filtration and air stones aid in CO2 exchange and helps dissolve your natural pH-boosters. Water changes – Vacuum substrate. Air circulation – Too much CO2 in the air can lower pH.  Provide adequate air circulation in your home (a slightly opened window is good for you and the fish) and avoid smoking. Remove any items from your aquarium that are on the ‘Lowering pH’ list.

Do you have any tricks to naturally decrease or increase pH in aquariums?  Please share them in the comments below. © All Natural Pet Care Blog – Content on this website may not be used elsewhere without expressed permission. You are welcome to link to this post for reference, discussion, etc. Content theft will result in legal action. Thank you for respecting the effort that we have put into our original content. If you would like to have quality content created for you, please contact our writer directly. DISCLOSURE: We may receive compensation for some links to products on this website. DISCLAIMER: Statements on this website may not have been evaluated by the FDA, Health Canada nor any other government regulator. are not intended to diagnose, treat, cure, nor prevent any disease and are intended for educational purposes only. COMMENTS ARE MODERATED – Legitimate comments will be published after a short delay. Spam will not be published. Both comments and pings are currently closed.