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This article will identify the effects of heat on an aquarium and offer some simple techniques to lower your temperature. Summer is back once again, with it comes the heat and algae! Without the proper tank set-up or preparation, high temperatures can quickly become the worst nightmare of any aquarist. Imbalances will not only affect fish, they can also be detrimental to aquatic plant and coral growth. Algae control can get out of hand quickly if the tank is left in the sun by a window, near bright lighting, or faulty tank equipment. This guide will help you find the best, quickest, and cheapest methods to reduce your tank’s temperature this summer. Our community has also gathered other tips for starting an aquarium, hopefully they are helpful in your setup. The process in which heat affects the ecosystem is simple: fish metabolisms rise with the temperature, creating a need for higher levels of oxygen in the water. Meanwhile dissolved oxygen levels drop as temperatures rise, compounding the problem.

In addition to the strain put on fish health, coral and aquatic plants will suffer, as they also rely on plentiful amounts of dissolved oxygen in the water. Any tanks with fish must be kept below a maximum of 86° to ensure their safety. For all species of fish, there is a middle ground in which they are happiest, and they must be kept within that range for optimum health. Examples: Tropical fish – 72° – 80° F (optimal is 78º), Common Goldfish – 65º – 68º F, Fancy Tail Goldfish – 65° – 72° F. There are a number of methods for keeping your tank cool, but the correct answer will be determined by the aquarists’ circumstances and fish inhabiting the aquarium. We would like to know the tips you use to keep the temperature suitable for all members of your aquarium, please leave a comment below. These will be your best methods to reduce the heat: Affordable, free, and/or quick fixes to lower the temperature: Have you used a different solution to lower the temperature in your aquarium?

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fish tank wooden floorTurning green means that your tank has an algae problem. There are several different types of algae, and at least a couple ways to interpret “fish tank turns green” but ultimately the process to fix it is going to be similar.When you say your fish tank turns green, do you mean that the glass, gravel, and decorations start to have a green coating on them? Or do you mean that the water itself starts to turn green. These are different types of algae, and while some treatment paths will work on both, some won’t.Functionally speaking, algae is not much different than plants in that they need three basic things to grow and thrive: light, nutrients, and air (carbon dioxide, or CO2). Depending on the balance of these three factors, you may achieve fantastic plant growth (if you’re trying to grow plants), rampant algae, or not much of either.

Most fish tanks have too much light and nutrients, so the first approach should be to limit these factors. If your tank is near a window, move it somewhere that doesn’t get as much natural light. If you’re leaving the aquarium light on all day (or all night, as many parents will do, using their aquarium as a sort of night light), cut back on the amount of time your lights are on. If you have a fluorescent light fixture with multiple bulbs, try switching it out for one with fewer bulbs or a low powered LED fixture.Nutrients are introduced by food, fish respiration, and decaying organic matter. Try cutting back the amount of food that you feed your fish. Fish are very good at “begging” for food, but most fish keepers tend to overfeed. If you have too many fish in your tank, you’re going to build up too many nutrients even if you feed them sparingly. Keep an eye on everything live in your tank to make sure you don’t have any fish that have died and are rotting as well as to remove dead plant leaves before they can fully decay.

In addition to limiting new nutrients into your tank, you need to stay on top of removing the nutrients that build up. Which means perform regular water changes. If you’re having algae issues, you should be performing at least a 25% water change every week, and potentially more. Exactly how much will be determined by your overall tank setup (size, stocking, filtration, etc) and your feeding routine. Perform regular water tests to figure out how quickly nitrates are building up and do enough water changes to keep the nitrates where they should be.In addition to preventing algae growth, you should look at ways of removing the algae that does grow. If your algae is growing on the various surfaces in your tank, there are a number of algae eating animals that can help keep it under control better. The most common are plecostomus, but they tend to be hit or miss, and the common pleco is not generally the best option. They get extremely large (up to 2 feet or more in length) and can have a significant impact on the bioload in your tank (meaning they are going to contribute more to nitrate build up which in turn fuels more algae growth).

There are certain pleco species, such as the bristlenose plecos, that make for better options. Flying foxes are also great algae eaters, though they are easily confused for some other species that are not as effective. In small tanks, otocinclus is a fantastic algae eater, though they can be somewhat delicate. Snails work very well (my personal favorite are freshwater nerite snails), and there are several types of snail that won’t reproduce endlessly in your aquarium. Also look at freshwater shrimp if you have a small community tank. Many shrimp will happily graze on algae, though they are the natural food for most fish.If your tank is having problems with the water turning green, no algae eater will be able to help with that. In addition to the general algae control techniques (especially cutting back light), you can try using a UV sterilizer. This will pull the water through a pump and expose it to UV-C light, which will kill any organic matter its exposed to, including the free floating algae turning your water green.