Ammonia poisoning is one of the biggest killers of aquarium fish. It occurs most often when a tank is newly set up. However, it can also occur in an established tank when too many new fish have been added at one time, when the filter fails due to power or mechanical failure, or if bacterial colonies die off due to the use of medications or sudden change in water conditions. The worst factor in ammonia poisoning is that elevated ammonia can't be seen. Although the effects can be seen, they are often misunderstood or missed entirely until it is too late. Regular water testing to detect elevated ammonia and learning what symptoms to look for go a long way towards combatting this invisible fish killer.Ammonia poisoning can happen suddenly or over a period of days. Initially, the fish may be seen gasping at the surface for air. The gills will begin to turn red or lilac in color, and may appear to be bleeding. The fish will begin to lose its appetite and become increasingly lethargic. In some cases, fish may be observed laying at the bottom of the tank with clamped fins.

As the damage from the ammonia poisoning continues, the tissues will be damaged as evidenced by red streaks or bloody patches that appear on the body and fins. Internal damage is occurring to the brain, organs, and central nervous system. The fish begins to hemorrhage internally and externally and eventually dies.If the ammonia level rises above 1 ppm as measured by a standard test kit, begin treatment immediately. Lowering the pH of the water will provide immediate relief, as will a 50% water change (be sure to use water that is the same temperature as the aquarium). Several water changes within a short period of time may be required to drop the ammonia to below 1 ppm.If the fish are in severe distress, the use of a chemical to  neutralize the ammonia is recommended. Feedings should be restricted so that additional waste is reduced. In cases of very high ammonia levels, feedings should be discontinued for several days. No new fish should be added until the tank until the ammonia and nitrite levels have fallen to zero.

Because ammonia toxicity is linked to the pH, testing of both ammonia and pH levels are critical. Ammonia becomes increasingly toxic as the pH rises above 7.0. Because there are so many variables, there is no magic number to watch for. However, there are general guidelines to follow.At a level of level of 1 ppm or 1 mg/l, fish are under stress, even if they don't appear in acute distress. 5ft fish tank with cabinetLevels even lower than that can be fatal if the fish are exposed continuously for several days. big fish tank for freeFor that reason, it is critical to continue daily testing and treatment until the ammonia drops to zero.buy tropical fish uk When ammonia is elevated for a long period, it is not unusual to lose fish even after the ammonia levels start to drop.where can i buy a fish tank bed

The point of establishing the Nitrogen Cycle is to establish good bacteria within the aquarium system.  This “Good Bacteria” is what breaks down the bad nitrites into the more manageable nitrates. It also starts a process called Denitrification. In deeper, compacted substrates and other areas of zero oxygen (sometimes in the filter or under at least 2 inches of good aquarium gravel) anaerobic bacteria strip nitrate of its oxygen atoms and release nitrogen gas (N2) in the process.biorb fish tank bulbWhen you start a new aquarium, ask a friend with a healthy, well-established aquarium for a cup of gravel from deep on the bottom of the substrate. buy goldfish tank ukYes, this looks very dirty. But it is full of anaerobic bacteria, that which we discussed above. One small cup (unwashed) put on the very bottom of your new aquarium and then covered with at least 2 inches of new aquarium gravel and filled with aged water (see tip #3) and you will cycle your aquarium in less than 3 weeks as opposed to 3 or 4 months the traditional way.

The key to avoiding fish death from ammonia poisoning is to avoid ammonia spikes in the first place. When starting a new tank, add only a couple of fish initially and do not add more until the tank is completely cycled. Even in a well-established tank, only add a couple of new fish at a time and avoid overstocking.Feed fish small quantities of foods and remove any food not consumed in five minutes. Clean the tank weekly, taking care to remove any dead plants or other debris. Perform a partial water change at least every other week, more often in small heavily stocked tanks. Test the water for ammonia at least twice a month to detect problems before they become serious.Anytime a fish appears to be ill, test for ammonia to rule out ammonia poisoning. If the filter stops, test for ammonia twenty-four hours later to ensure that the bacterial colonies that eliminate wastes were not affected.This part of my Goldfish Series, I’ll be sharing on the different types of goldfish that are available today.

As we all know, goldfish are very popular aquarium and pond fish because of their beautiful colors. They are considered luck bearers in the Orient, especially China and Japan where they have been bred for a millennia. As a result of countless breeding and spreading throughout the world, there are SO MANY types of goldfish available in the market today. There’re even different categories for goldfish such as single-tailed, double-tailed, streamlined bodied and egg-shaped bodied. In this post, I’ll be sharing some of the more popular types of goldfish beginning with those with an egg-shaped body. One of the hardiest varieties of fancy goldfish, having a relatively short body and short, split caudal fin. The dorsal fin is held up and in healthy specimens it can reach up to half of the body depth. Coloration may be solid or calico, depending on the scale formation. They can be kept in ponds and even with slim-bodied goldfish, but you must make sure they get their share of food.

Also a good beginner fish, this variety can be recognized by its pointed head and the broad hump behind it. Fins may be long or short, but the caudal and dorsal fin is always high and twice as long as the body. Coloration may be white, orange, red, red-and-white, or calico. Sometimes considered a black variety of the Fantail Goldfish, the Black Moor has long, flowing fins, and similar bodies. Their main coloration is black with a metallic, velvet look, which may fade with age. Some strains have developed telescope-like eyes, though not as much as in the Telescope variety. They are quite hardy and make good beginner fish, which can even be kept in outdoor ponds. You might also be interested to find out other fishes that are suitable for beginners. A very sensitive variety due to its long fins, it is no fish for beginners. Its body is very similar to the Ryukin and Fantail, with long, flowing tails. There are no splits between the tail lobes.

Fins are very susceptible to tear and parasites, so the tank set up has to be carefully planned and water kept very clean. Veil tail Goldfish cannot be kept in outdoor ponds. Very similar to the Riukin and Veil tail Goldfish, the Telescope eye variety has very protruding eyes, resembling telescopic lenses. This makes them very vulnerable to sharp objects and also limits their eyesight. Due to limited eyesight, they will not compete well for food, so it’s not recommended to keep them with faster, slim-bodied goldfish. They are more sensitive than the Riukin, but hardier than Veil tails, so they make suitable fish for intermediate keepers. They come in red, white, lavender, blue, black, chocolate, mixes of two colors, or calico. This variety got its name from the raspberry-like fleshy hood on their head. This growth has to keep stiff and not allowed to drop. They are very slow swimmers as they lack a dorsal fin, so they should only be kept with other slow-swimming varieties.

They are very sensitive and shouldn’t be kept in ponds. The Oranda is very similar to the Lionhead, due to the similar fleshy hood (wen) on their heads. They have double caudal and anal fins and a high dorsal fin. Their body shape resembles that of the Fantail variety and the most frequent coloration is white, with a red wen. They may also display calico colorations. Beginners shouldn’t keep these slow swimmers. The main features of these fish, also called Stargazers in China, are their eyes, which are locked upwards. Because of this, they have very limited eyesight and will not compete well for food. Also, they lack a dorsal fin and are very slow swimmers. This is why they should only be kept by advanced aquarists and only with other Celestials in the tank. Also known as Suihogan in Japan, this variety has sensitive fluid filled sacks under their eyes, which cause their eyes to look upwards, just as in the Celestial variety. These sacks and the lack of dorsal fins make them terrible swimmers and cannot handle any type of current, so you may want to use a very gentle filter.

The eye sacks are very sensitive to sharp objects and rough substrate, thus use a very fine sand and only decorations with rounded edges. This variety is only recommended for expert aquarists. The Comet got its name from the long, deeply-forked tail, which can get as long as the fish’s body and resembles the tail of a comet. They are a pretty hardy fish, with stiff fins and high tolerance for lower temperatures, which makes them suitable pond fish, and can be kept by beginner aquarists. The Comet Goldfish are fast swimmers. Their main feature is the calico coloration with blue spots. The bluer they are, the more valuable they are considered. They are also very hardy and suitable for beginners. The Shunbunkin are fast swimmers, which can be kept in ponds. The Common Goldfish have smooth, compact bodies, resembling their ancestors (carps) with forked tails and long-based dorsal fins. They are the most hardy of all goldfish and tolerate slightly polluted water better than the other varieties.