The following is a list of aquarium diseases. Aquarium fish are often susceptible to numerous diseases, due to the artificially limited and concentrated environment. New fish can sometimes introduce diseases to aquaria, and these can be difficult to diagnose and treat. Most fish diseases are also aggravated when the fish is stressed. Common aquarium diseases include the following: The goal of quarantine is to prevent problems in the main tank due to sickness. A quarantine tank should be used before to introduce any newly acquired animals in the main tank and to treat fish that are already sick. By doing this, the aquarist can avoid the spread of the disease and make it easier to treat the fish. friend of the site is currently unable to further her work and her former webhost is on a temporary Hiatus. Working with her former host and friend I was able to recreate much of Pandoras hard work and once again offer most of this valuable resource to all hobbyist.

I cleaned up the tables some and removed any broken links, all text is original. Most of the time, troubleshooting by frequent water changes and avoiding fish stress will prevent serious outbreaks of disease in the tank. the list of preventative things, I cannot stress buying small numbers of fish SLOWLY enough; many a tank can be devastated by bringing in a large number of new fish in a relatively small time. actually cohabitate with some disease organisms at low concentration without becoming symptomatic, but when fish are stressed by sudden environmental changes and overcrowded conditions, their immune systems don't function well and they become far more susceptible to disease. are vulnerable, because they have been passed from breeder to wholesaler to distributor to retailer to consumer and most likely spent the whole time in horrid surroundings. They should be quarantined in a separate Some diseases can be tenacious once they take hold in a tank.

to try and figure out a general diagnosis before dumping a lot of medication into the tank, as some meds are toxic dyes that can kill with overdosing (especially to sensitive fish such as tetras and scaleless cats), andfish tank toilet for sale some, such as antibiotics, will wreak havoc on your biofiltration andfish tank filter for sale melbourne throw your established tank into a new cycle. fake fish tank jellyfishKeep in mind that "sometimesjebo fish tanks kzn the cure can be worse than the disease" (and ALL chemical additionsfish tank fish care

to the tank which change water conditions stress the life inside the closedAlso, keep in mind that most plants and inverts will not tolerate many medications in the water. In planted aquaria, it is best to remove the affected fish to the quarantine tank or into a small treatmentjebo fish tank nz vessel with circulation and heat. It is sometimes helpful to add a small (1tbsp/5gal) amount of aquarium salt (NOT marine salt, which is different), as most medications disturb healthy gill function, and the salt reduces osmotic shock and electrolyte loss... but this is a somewhat controversial issue that I address in the following article (pros & cons): I've been working on a photo archive of fish diseases that people send me or allow me to use from their sites. archive of photos is not meant to be exhaustive or comprehensive. note also that some diseases have multiple manifestations (Columnaris,

NTD, Fish TB, to name a few), and may vary in presentation from fishothers are not true "diseases" caused by a single organism, but rather signs that could point to a number of causativeClick on the thumbnails, and you will be linked to the larger photos (if it was larger to begin with, that is, I can't enlarge photos any larger than they were when sent to me, because this will not improve resolution). THIS IS AN ONGOING PROJECT THAT IS ALWAYS BEING ADDEDIF YOU HAVE A RELATIVELY CLEAR PHOTO OF A FISH WITH A DISEASE THAT YOU THINK I CAN USE, PLEASE EMAIL ME. If you need help or have specific questions please visit the at the site forumBacterial Infections: Inactivity, loss of color, frayed fins, bloated body, cloudy eyes, open sores, abscesses, red streaks throughout body, reddening or inflammation of the skin, fins or internal organs, bulging eyes, difficulty breathing. Fungal Infections (often secondary to another type of illness):Erratic swimming, darting, scratching, visible cotton-like tufts on skin, eyes, or mouth.

Parasitic Infections: Inactivity, loss of appetite, excess mucus or film on body, visible spots or worms, rapid breathing, scratching. Understand that while salt is frequently used as a treatment/preventative for sick fish, it is no guarantee. It can even be dangerous to some fish (for example, cory catfish). There is nothing more important than maintaining a proper environment (temperature, water quality, aeration). Basically, salt will strip or re-stimulate (depending upon the concentration) the slime coat produced by the fish, increasing antibodies and making bacteria, fungus, and parasites more vulnerable to medications such as antibiotics or fungicides. The following salts can be used in a salt treatment for your fish: Aquarium, solar (without anti-caking additives), meat curing, sea, kosher, rock, pickling, and ice cream salts, or regular non-iodized table salt. The additives mentioned above may include a type known as sodium ferrocyanide or yellow prussiate of soda.

This is deadly to fish. The "cyanide" part should clue you in to that. For a constant preventative treatment, use a low concentration of about .3%. This is equal to about 2.5 teaspoons per U.S. gallon of water. If you have live plants in your aquarium, you may want to consider about half that amount. For a concentrated "dip" to be used in treatment of external parasites, the concentration should be 1%, or 7.5 teaspoons per U.S. gallon. You must be very careful when using these dips. All fish will react differently to salt treatments, and especially smaller fish must be monitored very closely. Generally this will be done in a hospital/quarantine tank, as water changes are the only way to remove salt from your main tank. The hospital/quarantine tank should be at least one gallon, with no rocks and only two or three plastic plants for security. The temperature should be kept between 75-80 degrees with good aeration. Dissolve your salt completely before adding your fish. Once you have put your fish into the water, watch it closely for signs of distress, such as rolling over.