Grandma nearly dies as great white shark smashes headfirst into glass tank SHARKS are absolutely terrifying. Even the world's more passionate animal lovers make sure they're very well protected before getting close to one.Yet some experiences are more eventful than others – as a grandma discovered while out on a day trip with her grandson.In the clip – filmed on a smartphone – the elderly woman is seen walking past a beautiful blue aquarium hoping to see some fish.And she does – a huge humpback whale cruises past her and she gazes in amazement at the majestic mammal. But when it swims away she's left with an empty tank and nothing to see. So her cheeky grandchild coaxes her into tapping on the window to attract another aquatic sight.And when she does she gets a huge shock.A huge, ferocious great white shark rockets towards the glass and smashes it leaving a huge crack.And the terrified woman throws herself to the floor for protection.But instead of helping, the kids just laugh – the shark was a fake CG creation all along and what looked like a tank was actually just a computer screen.

The video – shot at the International Spy Museum in Washington D.C. – has racked up a whopping 172,900 hits and viewers were just as terrified as them. Up close with sharks One YouTube user wrote: "That scared me too!"Another commented: "That's horrible. I'd totally freak out."And a third added: "My heart is pounding. Very scared by that."Only last week a video surfaced online showing two young girls diving into shark-infested waters.A group of fishermen recently spotted an enormous shark doing strange acrobatics in the water.fish tank to acidicAnd terrified kayakers froze in the water when huge hungry sharks swam beneath them.buy monterey bay aquarium ticketsNot all algae in the aquarium is necessarily 'bad' - a certain amount is inevitable where therecheap aquarium co2 system

is water, light and nutrients. However, some types of algae are certainly a nuisance, if for no other reason than looking unsightly. The control or prevention of different algae types is primarily about nutrient control, and the amount of light. There are therefore some general guidelines which can be followed to Avoid direct sunlight falling on the tank, especially for prolonged periods. Unfortunately, despite the pleasant rippling light effects provided by sunlight, the rich lighting spectrum of the sun is likely to mean a constant battle against algae inbest place to buy aquarium fish in toronto Do not leave lighting on for more than 10-12 hours a day. where to buy aquarium fish in jakartaLonger periods are likely to favourbiggest fish tank uk

algal growth, rather than promote plant growth. Minimise nutrient levels with frequent water changes. In particular, it may help to keep nitrates, phosphates and silicates low if you have a persistant problem - either by the use of reverse osmosis (RO) or deionised (DI) water, or specific adsorption resins (e.g. API Phos-Zorb). However, note that although high levels of such nutrients may encourage algae, it is not generally possible to completely eliminate algae by attempting to reduce them, as algae can survive at levels below those which can be measured by a hobbyist test kit. Consider adding algae eating fish if appropriate to the setup. These include: suckermouth catfish (e.g. Ancistrus, Peckoltia and Otocinclus species), the Siamese Algae Eater (Crossocheilus Note that in planted tanks (which is not really the same as tanks with a few plants in!), the most effective way to control algae growth is to plant heavily and promote vigorous plant growth of several different species, to out-compete the algae for

The management of a planted aquarium is beyond the scope of this article, and will be the subject of a future article, but an important nutrient with regard to plant versus algae growth in a planted tank is Iron, and controlling levels of this nutrient is likely to be important. The taxonomy of algae and related organisms is complex, but for the purpose of identification in the aquarium, they can be conveniently grouped into the following: This is often the first algae to appear in a newly set-up tank, where conditions have yet to stabilise. It will often appear around the 2-12 week period, and may disappear as quickly as it arrived when the conditions stabilise after a couple of months. It is essential to minimise nutrient levels to ensure the algae disappears - avoid overfeeding and carry out the appropriate water changes, gravel and filter cleaning, etc. Limiting the light will not deter this algae, as it can grow at low lighting levels and will normally out-compete green algae under

If brown algae appears in an established tank, check nitrate and phosphate levels. or more thorough substrate cleaning may be necessary. Using a phosphate-adsorbing resin will also remove silicates, which are important to the growth of this algae. However, as noted above, it is essentially impossible to totally eliminate algae with this strategy alone. Due to its ability to grow at low light levels, this algae may also appear in dimly lit tanks, where old fluorescent bulbs have lost much of their output. If a problem does occur, otocinclus catfish are known to clear this algae quickly, although you may need several for larger tanks, and they can be difficult to acclimatise initially. There are some very plausible theories as to why this algae often appears in newly set up tanks and then laterIf the silicate (Si) to phosphate (P) ratio is high, then diatoms are likely to have a growth advantage over true algae types and Cyanobacteria. Some of the silicate may come from the tapwater, but it will also be leached

from the glass of new aquaria, and potentially from silica sand/gravel substrates to some extent. Later, when this leaching has slowed, and phosphate is accumulating in the maturing tank, the Si:P ratio will change in favour of phosphate, which is likely to favour the growth of green algae instead. A certain amount of green algae is likely to occur in any tank with sufficient lighting. It is eaten by most algae eating fish and is generally fairly easy to remove from the tank glass. This appears as small round dots on the aquarium glass. It appears to be a normal part of planted tanks with higher light levels. Algae-eating fish will not remove this algae and manual removal requires hardMagnetic algae scrapers are usually inadequate, unless the edge of one half is used inside the tank - or use a razor blade. This occurs as long greenish or grey strands. Some algae eating fish may consume it. It can be removed manually by winding around a toothbrush.

Brush or red algae can be very difficult to remove manually. It seems to be favoured in tanks with a high pH and carbonate hardness, leading some to speculate that they may be able to utilise bicarbonates as aLimiting phosphate and silicate (either by using RO/DI water or specific adsorption resins) should deter this algae. Siamese Algae Eaters (Crossocheilus siamensis) are are often said to be the only common algae eating fish which will tackle this type of algae, although the common plec appears to eat it too. "Blue-green algae" is not really a true algae at all, but Cyanobacteria - a group of bacteria capable of photosynthesis. It can appear as a slimy coating in a number of different colours. smother plants and may release toxins harmful to fish. It can fix nitrogen and may therefore occur in tanks with zero or very low nitrates (but possibly high levels of other nutrients, particularly phosphate and organic wastes). It can be removed manually quite easily, as it often forms loose sheets, but it's likely to return quickly.