Bettas are usually associated with small tanks. Larger pet stores often sell mini tanks for bettas, encouraging this type of fishkeeping for two main reasons:Bettas can survive in small enclosures. This is true, they’re tough little fish that can survive anywhere from dirty rice paddies to mud puddles. But that doesn’t mean they enjoy it. A betta would enjoy a wide open tank much more.Bettas attack other fish, so they need to be kept alone. Again, this is true, but a little misleading. Bettas may attack other brightly colored fish, especially those with flowing fins, but given enough space they get along quite well with a lot of other animals.So I need to keep a betta in a little tank with no other inhabitants, right? If I do that, I have a betta that is (hopefully) fed every other day, and excretes wastes constantly into the water. That makes it cloudy very quickly.My betta is in a 20 gallon tank with a number of tankmates. Everyone is fed a pretty rich diet, and the water is never cloudy (mainly due to regular water changes).

If you are keeping a single betta, please read my post here: How do you prevent cloudy water in a betta fish tank?Generally the things that cause cloudy water in fish tanks in general are:Poor setup.Overfeeding leading to bacterial or algal blooms.Excessive fish waste due to lack of cleaning/maintenance.You didn’t ask, but here are some fixes:Is your tank properly cycled? You may have a bacterial bloom going on as part of the nitrate/nitrite cycle during startup. You should also not have any fish in here if this is the case. The tank is not ready for them and the rapidly changing environment is harmful.Do an immediate 25–50% water change and be sure to use a commercial de-chlorinator to remove harmful chemicals prior to adding fresh water to the tank. You don’t mention tank size so temperature matching will be helpful as well prior to any additions. Do more water changes. if you are holding the fish in a small tank, you need to be doing 25% water changes weekly or more often based on the bio load.

Review your filtration- is it enough? Is it the right kind? A filter rated for a 10 gallon tank is usually sufficient for a 5 gallon tank. I use the 2x rule with filtration and my tank/s are crystal clear. Also if your tank is of the larger variety, a simple floss filled filter driven by an air pump is not capable of effectively filtering a large volume of water. fish aquarium desktop screensaverA side hanging or canister filter might be more appropriate for your setup.orb fish tank heaterReview your feeding schedule. cheap 5 foot fish tanksAre you feeding only as much as the fish will eat in 3–5 minutes? best automatic fish feeder reef tank

are you removing any leftovers? are you feeding more than once (1x) per day? Fish do not need to be fed on a daily basis (with some exceptions). Once every other day is fine as long as all fish are getting fed. Reduce feeding if needed.Look at your bio load (# of fish/shrimp/snails/etc..) per gallon. Use the 1″ per gallon rule of thumb. if you have exceeded this based on your setup, re-home to a new, cycled tank or find a pet shop that will re-home your extra fish. aquarium fish online in indiaA reduction of fish/gallon will reduce waste and help things clear up. betta fish tank preparationMake sure when doing water changes that the gravel/substrate gets vacuumed using a gravel siphon to remove excessive waste.These are some of the reasons (with a few fixes) for this to happen…I’m sure I may have missed a few more….Hope this helps.

Fish kept in a bowl is prone to disease due to the small volume of water, where wastes can easily accumulate and cause a bacterial bloom. Here are guidelines on how to prevent this from happening. Keeping The Water Clean. The biggest, most important factor in keeping your fish disease-free is to keep the water clean. This can be done in several ways: •  Perform regular, small to remove any accumulated waste and to remove any decaying organic matter (primarily from excess feeding and dead leaves or roots from plants). This also helps prevent the build-up of minerals or toxins in the water as water evaporates and dust and debris settle into the tank. •  Provide your fish with a to help reduce stress. Putting plenty of hiding places such as plants and broken clay pots make your fish feel secured. •  Keep the bowl at the for the fish. Fish that are kept in water that is significantly too warm or too cold, or even fish that are kept slightly too warm or cold for long periods of time are going to be stressed and this will repress their immune systems.

•  If your fish bowl has a filter, check it to be sure that it is clean and the water is flowing at the usual rate. •   with chlorine neutralizer and add a pinch of aquarium salt or rock salt (not iodized salt). Salt kills many types of bacteria, and it is safe for the fish. •   no more than twice a day. Don't feed him more than he will eat within 2 minutes. Remove all uneaten bits of food. •  Be conservative with medications. Almost all medications are stressful to your fish, so medicating when not necessary can actually increase your fish's chances of contracting something, so only medicate when necessary. •  Check the water regularly. Is the water cloudy or foamy? Does the water have an unusual odor? If so take immediate action. Cloudy, foamy, or smelly water are signs of bacterial infestation. A full water change and sanitationis necessary on such occasion. To sanitize the bowl, soak empty bowl, fish net, plastic plants and filter in a mixture of tap water and Clorox (1 part Clorox to 20 parts water).

Soak for about one hour, then rinse very thoroughly several times. Throw away any live plants. Rocks and gravel CANNOT be soaked in Clorox as they will absorb it and then probably poison your fish. Heat them in an oven at 450°F for about an hour. Then let them cool off and put them back in your bowl. Put brand new filtering media in your filter, and put your bowl back together. Fill with new water and let the filter run for 24 hours before adding your fish back to it. •  Check your fish for signs of stress and disease. Does he not eat at all and spit out his food? Does he lay at the bottom and come up only for air? Does he dart and purposely run into anything he can (gravel, rocks, etc) in an effort to scratch himself? Is he looking paler and dull? Are his fins clumped, closed, stiff looking or falling apart? Does his body have open sores, white cottony patches, red spots, lumps or white spots? Does his belly look too hollow or on the contrary is abnormally swollen and big? The earlier you spot a sick fish and begin to give that fish special care, the sooner it will recover.

Should your fish become sick, there are many medications on the market that will quickly and accurately treat most of the diseases your fish are likely to encounter.Here is a list of some Betta diseases including symptoms and possible treatment. Take note that these are the most commonly encountered Betta diseases. You may find more information on other Betta diseases and treatment by clicking on other Betta pages found under “Useful Links” on the right sidebar menu. •  FUR COAT SYNDROME — a dermal bacterial infection. Bettas are very susceptible to this ailment. It is generally characterized by discoloration of tissue, particularly the fins to a dark brown or black and a grey or brown ‘fur’ or mold over the body, usually starting across the back and at the base of the fins and rapidly spreading to cover most of the body. Loss of appetite and listlessness are also common signs. This disease can be readily prevented by keeping your Betta in warm enough water, providing them with a good diet, and treating your water with aquarium salt or rock salt.

‘Fur coat syndrome’ is almost always fatal within 30 hours of the first signs or symptoms. In cases where you know that your fish has caught this disease, using a targeted Betta antibiotic greatly increases the fish's survival rate in the face of this illness. •  FIN ROT — this disease comes mainly from dirty water. If you keep the water VERY CLEAN your Betta will never get fin rot. Your Betta has fin rot if his fins and/or tail seem to be getting shorter and shorter, or they seem to be falling apart and dissolving. There may be a darker color (or a reddish one) to the edge of the Betta's fins/tail. He may be still active and eating normally, or may have stopped eating, fins may be clumped, color may be pale. If your fish has caught this disease, do a full water change and use a medication such as Neosulfex or an antibiotic such as Tetracycline. A small pinch of aquarium salt or rock salt will also help the healing process. Get a new bowl and sanitize old bowl every week until healed.

•  ICK — Ick is a parasite. If you always add aquarium salt or rock salt to your Betta's water he will probably never get Ick. Your Betta has Ick if he has white spots all over his body. He may be less active, may have stopped eating, and fins may be clumped. Do a full water change and add more salt (up to 1 teaspoon per gallon) to the water. You can also use medication specially made to kill Ick. •  VELVET — Velvet is another parasite. If you always add aquarium salt or rock salt to your Betta's water he will probably never get velvet. It is hard to spot, but can be best spotted with a flashlight. Shine the light on the Betta's body. If it looks like it is covered with a fine gold or rust mist, then it has velvet. A Betta with velvet will act sick, so look for clamped fins, scratching against rocks/gravel/tank, loss of appetite, loss of color etc. Increase the amount of salt as the procedure for ick (see above). Use a medication for velvet such as Maracide. •  DROPSY — the most common and most fatal Betta disease.