Edit ArticleHow to Build an Aquarium Stand Three Methods:Build the Aquarium Stand FrameCover the Aquarium StandStain and Complete the Aquarium StandCommunity Q&A Aquarium stands raise your fish tank to a whole new level, both in height and beauty. Well-crafted, store-bought tanks can be very expensive, but you can learn how to build a homemade aquarium stand that is constructed just as well as one offered at a store for a fraction of the cost. Construct the frame's skeleton in a rectangular shape. Cut additional #2 2-by-4 wood beams to use as cross braces along the top of the frame. Install vertical posts for every corner and at the location of each cross brace. Screw wood joints to each of the frame corners with your power drill. Measure the bottom of your newly constructed frame. Measure each side of your aquarium stand, and use your pencil to trace the shape onto a piece of wood sheeting. Glue each piece to its corresponding side with wood glue, and secure the pieces with finishing nails.

Measure the 1-by-4 trim pieces to fit around each corner of the aquarium stand. Paint or stain your finished stand in the color you desire. Attach the cabinet doors you selected with the manufacturer's guide for installation. While making an aquarium stand, keep in mind that you must build it to suit your specific tank. This design can be modified accordingly by adjusting the length and width to your needs. For a time-saving alternative, substitute finished paneling for the sheeting. This will eliminate the need to finish and stain, which will cut several days off the project's time. If you choose this option, be sure to choose trim and mold to match.3 ft fish tank with only lid look pic got a little crack on top but no leaking vg for reptile 3 ft fish tank with only lid no light look pic got little crack on the top look pic ander crack no leaking or very good for reptile no stand or light only tank... 1 - 25 of 531 ads for "fish tank cabinet"Show All ItemsSwim to your local pet store and you might spot a lot of aquarium stands to choose from.

But try to find one that will fit a sump filtration system, even a 10 gallon one, and you are likely to come up dry. the fish tank pet store paris tnGo online, and you can find lots of DIY aquarium stands. fish tank sizes australiaBut try to find a set of instructions that do not involve 2 by 4s, cinder blocks, railroad ties or other unsightly materials, and your choices are very limited. best size fish tank for cichlidsIt stinks... like a dead fish! clothes combinationSo that's why my 14 year old son and I decided to swim someplace else and come up with a design of our own.55 gallon fish tank with oak stand

Since this design, we have built another one with an improved design that allows you to place it anywhere, cabinet lighting, a power cord manager, and other additional features. buy fish aquarium perthHere is a link to it: Make a Better Than New Aquarium StandStep 1: Tools and MaterialsShow All ItemsStep 2: The SecretShow All ItemsStep 3: Base and CapShow All ItemsStep 4: Join the FramesShow All ItemsStep 5: Clamp TogetherShow All ItemsStep 6: Cut Plywood Panels and FloorShow All ItemsStep 7: Look Mom, No Glue.... YetShow All ItemsStep 8: The FrontShow All ItemsStep 9: Cabinet DoorsShow All ItemsStep 10: Glue, Sand, Prime and PaintShow All ItemsStep 11: Hinge InstallationShow All ItemsStep 12: Secret PanelShow All ItemsStep 13: SwimShow All ItemsThis is a basic design for an aquarium stand that I have built twice, once for a 55 gallon, and once for a 120 gallon. The design could be modified for virtually any glass tank in the 55 to 180 or so gallon range by simply adjusting the length and width.

The pictures are from the construction of the stand for my 120 gal unless otherwise indicated. I assume that you have a basic knowledge of how to measure, cut, drill, nail, screw, glue, etc. I also assume that you know proper safety precautions. If you do not know either, please refer to a basic carpentry book. Plan to spend several evenings on this project. It took me about a week working 2 to 3 hours an evening to finish the project. If you are inexperienced at woodworking, plan to take up to twice as long. I start by building a basic frame using 2x4s. As seen in the picture below, the frame consists of two rectangles (top and bottom), vertical posts, and cross-beams. The rectangles should be as long and wide as your tank plus 1/2 inch for wiggle room in each direction. The Cross braces should be placed at two foot intervals. Since the pictured stand is only 4 feet long, there is only one cross-brace at the center of each rectangle. Vertical posts should be placed at each corner, and at each cross-brace location.

Decide what height you want the top of the tank to be at,and subtract the tank height to get the length of the vertical posts. For my 120, I made the vertical posts about 40 inches long. This makes a fairly tall stand, but I wanted the tank to be at a higher line of sight. Joints are connected using wood glue and #8×2” wood screws. Drill pilot holes and couter-sink them. If you do not have a power drill, it would be a good idea to get one. Screwing in 2” wood screws by hand is a very difficult job, even with pilot holes. A screwdriver bit turns your drill into a power screw driver. To the basic frame, I added nailers. The purpose of the nailers is to provide a continuous surface for attaching the cover material. As shown in the picture below, there is a nailer atached to each vertical support. The nailers are atached to the supports with glue and wood screws. Measure the distance between the upper and lower rectangles to get the length for the nailers. The picture also shows some extra frame work I did for the openings on the front of the tank.

This was to create openings that were the right size for the doors I bought, and to give me solid locations to mount the doors. I will talk more about the doors later. The final feature shown in the picture below is the panel covering the bottom of the frame. This is a tricky cut. You will need to measure all the obstructions (vertical post locations) insied the frame fairly closely. Draw them out with a pencil on a piece of cover material and cut out carefully with a hand jig saw (a rotary saw or hand coping saw could also be used if you do not have a hand jigsaw). The piece is attached with glue and 3d finishing nails. Now comes the task of covering the frame. It is simply a matter of measuring, marking and cutting the sheeting. Try to lay out the cover pieces so that you get the most from each sheet of material. Glue and nail with 3d finish nails. If you want to hide the nail heads, sink them with a center punch, and fill the holes with wood putty. Note that the back of the frame does not need to be covered unless it will be exposed to view.

Now comes the trim. Again, measure each pice, and cut carefully to get a good fit. If you have the skill and a miter box, you can miter the trim corners. If not, just do lap joints. If you do lap joints, cut the front trim so that it is long enough to cover the ends of the side trim. That way, the joints face to the side, rather than the front. My preference is to have the top trim conceal the frame of the tank, particularly if the frame is a different color than the finished stand. Here is a pic with more of the trim applied: Once the trim is done, it is time to finish the wood. I used a light oak polyurethane stain. You can select your finish based on the material you are using and the trim on the tank. Below is the stand with one coat of finish. The pre-fab doors are laying across the top of the stand to dry. Depending on the finish you select, you will probably need from 1 to 3 coats of finish. Follow the directions as far as sanding between coats. When you are done with the finish, atach the doors, and you are done: